An ancient gorge near Niagara Falls
Niagara Falls may be the headliner and it’s no wonder why—the sheer magnitude of 2800 tonnes of water cascading every second is staggering. But in autumn, it’s the surrounding landscape that truly draws me in. The falls are framed by bursts of amber, while the mist catches the dusky sunlight like scattered jewels.
Nearby, I hike through the lush trails and along the dramatic cliffs of Niagara Glen, led by the “Rekindling All Our Relations” Indigenous self-guided audio tour. Following trails carved into ancient rocks, the narration weaves together the land’s geology with First Nations stories.
Michelin stars and seasonal treats in Toronto
Autumn in Toronto is when the fresh, local harvest meets the creativity of world-renowned chefs. At Antler, Chef Michael Hunter’s roasted mushrooms deliver earthy perfection, while Michelin-starred Quetzal serves up barbecued sweet potato with peanut salsa that’s both comforting and exciting.
It’s not just about fine dining, though. One of my favourite treats is a humble, warm and chewy apple fritter from The Big Apple, a roadside gem on Highway 401 en route to Ottawa.
Awe-inspiring art in Ottawa
A towering spider sculpture, Maman by Louise Bourgeois, soars nine metres above the outdoor plaza of Ottawa’s National Gallery of Canada—an invitation into a world of artistic wonder on a grand scale. Inside, I’m captivated by Anishinaabe artist Norval Morrisseau’s vivid paintings, where bold colours and flowing shapes bring ancestral stories to life.
Equally powerful is Nadia Myre’s monumental For Those Who Cannot Speak: the Land, the Water, the Animals and the Future Generations, a 10-metre-long photograph of beadwork resembling the wampum belts worn by tribal leaders. At nearby ByWard Market, warm cider in hand, I walk by stalls overflowing with bright pumpkins and juicy pears before tucking into a freshly made local Beavertail pastry.
Innovation in Montreal
Montreal’s reputation as a cutting-edge city is well earned, with cultural and culinary scenes that push boundaries year-round. The city’s experimental spirit thrives in October at Phénomena Festival, an interdisciplinary celebration of boundary-pushing art and performance. At the festival’s long-running DADA Cabaret, heavy metal growlers harmonise like a choir while circus performers blend acrobatics and theatrical flair.
During MTLàTABLE, fixed-price menus across 150 restaurants make it easy to explore Montreal's culinary diversity. I dive into a world of flavours, sampling African-Québécois fusion at Le Virunga, vibrant Vietnamese paired with fine wines at An Choi Plaza and modern French at Foiegwa.
Illuminated stories in Québec City
Golden and ruby treetops peek above tin roofs as autumn casts its glow over Old Québec. The city’s cobblestoned streets wind past stone buildings steeped in history, while the iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac rises like a crown above it all. A short drive away lies Wendake, a Huron-Wendat community rich in history and culture.
At night, the Onhwá Lumina trail transforms the forest into a luminous tapestry of light, sound and stories. I follow glowing paths through the trees, past an illuminated longhouse and beneath glowing arches alive with Huron-Wendat myths.